"It bypasses the top layer of skin to offer safe treatment in all skin types," she says.įractionated and picosecond lasers devices are also favorable since they use tiny light beams instead of a heavy stream, making the treatment easier on the skin. Del Campo, one of the safest lasers for melanin-rich skin is the Nd: YAG laser, which treats everything from unwanted tattoos and dark spots to acne scars, age spots, and fine lines and wrinkles. “The older laser technologies struggled to differentiate between brown skin and dark spots, increasing the risk of adverse reactions for people of color.”Īccording to Dr. “There is also new technology available that can differentiate between hyperpigmentation, melasma, and dark skin to effectively treat unwanted dark spots without damaging beautiful, healthy melanin-rich skin,” he adds. More in-office treatments, particularly laser and heat-based treatments, now come with the option to customize the intensity, making them safe and effective for nearly all skin tones, says Corey Hartman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist. But that has changed due to the advent of newer technologies that accommodate all skin tones and types. "The disruption of the top layer of skin (where the skin makes pigment) can lead to a permanent and potentially disfiguring lightening or darkening of the skin following treatment," says Roberta Del Campo, MD, consulting dermatologist and medical advisor for BABOR. In the past, using lasers on melanin-rich skin resulted in discoloration and burns due to reactions between the excessive heat and hyperactive melanocytes (melanin-producing cells). Since laser and energy-based devices make the skin more sensitive to the sun, it's crucial to wear sunblock every day, reapply frequently, and always follow the post-care instructions-and that goes for all skin tones across the board. If hyperpigmentation results from a treatment, brightening agents like azelaic, tranexamic, ascorbic, and kojic acids, arbutin, and even Cyspera, an innovative hydroquinone-free skin lightening system, can help fade discoloration. "If there is not a dermatologist in your area familiar with melanin-rich skin tones, test spot before having any procedures to ensure low complications," advises Dr. So are lighter chemical peels, micro-focused ultrasound, radiofrequency, and microdermabrasion treatments.Īll skin tones considered, it's best always to see a board-certified dermatologist who works with and understands darker skin tones. Professionally administered treatments that do not rely on excessive heat or high energy levels are the better choice for melanated skin. Some are suitable, while others are off-limits. Boakye.īut that doesn’t mean darker skin can't use lasers. But they can potentially damage skin and cause hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation, "especially high energy treatments," says Dr. "Hyperpigmentation can present itself as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, uneven skin tone, photoaging, or other forms of dyschromia." The go-to treatment for reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin in lighter skin tones are the tried-and-true lasers or the classic chemical peel. Those with melanated skin (skin that contains high levels of melanin, which gives skin its color) often find themselves at the dermatologist's office desperate to treat hyperpigmentation. The world of skin care and aesthetics is changing, and many of the treatments previously considered off-limits for darker skin tones are now safe to use.
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